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Published
Mar 6, 2017
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Carlin Creative Trend Bureau : "6 things you should know "- New York + London Fashion Weeks - Fall 2017

Published
Mar 6, 2017



© Victoria Beckam


Both faced with uncertain international and economic prospects, these two capitals reacted very differently to current questions. If New York seizes societal issues and proposes a fashion in connection with the real world, London thinks positive and plays the creative card.

Satin is the new Velvet

While New York designers remain velvet-addicts, Londoners have turned the page and now play the satin card, fluid and floating. Often cut in asymmetry, the ample satin shapes slide along the body and accompany the movement.


© Mulberry ©Roksanda ©Sies Marjan


Note: this season, satin also means monochrome total-look ... or in camaieu option. It can go with another fabric as a duet, but always treated in the same color palette. From now on, satin escapes the evening ghetto and finally discovers daylight.

Say something! Or not.

Following the recent political context, slogans and messages have flourished everywhere, especially in New York, where many designers have acted in an almost militant way. But in London, the idea was hijacked by playing it cute and fun, free of any form of statement, just to make it a pop and fun trick. Oh-so-British!


© Ashish



©Jeremy Scott




© House of Holland



© Pyer Moss



©Public school



© Proenza Schouler


The other option is of course the neo-90's logomania, treated by numerous streetwear-obsessed luxury labels.

For her… and for him.

On one hand, you get the labels that present women in their menswear shows and on the other hand, those who do the opposite; as a result, there has never been so much mixed collections. A way to develop a brand’s identity in a more global vision, and to interpret a style on both wardrobes, woman and man. Gender is dead, long live gender!


© Calvin klein © Lacoste © Philip Plein


After the show know-buy know buzz, which does not seem to expand that much, the women’s + men’s show becomes the new disturbing element of the calendar, just in case we would get bored ...

Experimental metallizations

This season, metallic surfaces take unexpected, visionary turns. If the reference to eveningwear remains obvious, some more hybrid options take over. The most interesting ones question the connection between metallics and other associated fabrics. But it is also about declining the different options: sequins, coatings, lamé ...


© Christopher Kane © JW Anderson © Proenza Schouler


While silver remains massively present, gold or colored metallizations offer an alternative.
 
Daring Graphics

Let's be clear, that's what designer fashion is all about: unexpected telescoping, improbable associations, grinding patterns ...


© Marques Almeida © Mary Katrantzou © Peter Piloto


And it can be said that the London designers have made the most of these, thanks be to them!

THE pair of JEANS...

Yeezy’s one will clearly take it all; bye bye too short, bye bye too wide, here is the most serious competitor to the Vetements jean :


© Yeezy


Thank you, Kanye!

By Thomas Zylberman for Carlin Creative Trend Bureau

carlin-creative.com

 

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