Summer 2023 trends spotted at Who’s Next show

From September 2 to 5, ready-to-wear buyers flocked to Paris’s Porte de Versailles exhibition centre for the Who's Next show, perusing the Spring/Summer 2023 collections presented by over 800 labels. FashionNetwork.com has walked the aisles of the centre’s Hall 1, and compiled a list of some of the key trends identified at the show. Before revealing them, a first observation: visitors were looking for cheerfulness. “If there is one takeaway, it’s that clients were keen on colour. We featured a number of quite understated items, but retailers went for the most colourful ones,” said French label Léo & Ugo.

Floral patterns make a comeback every year, but each time in different guises. For next summer, timid, poetic micro-flowers are out, the trend is for flowers blossoming in abundance, with striking all-over prints. Tropical motifs, vintage atmospheres and maxi flower prints are the order of the day, as at Belgian label Imprévu. “Everything is unique: I develop my own prints and we’re seeing that this is what retailers are looking for,” said Justine God, who founded her label in 2016. “As an emerging brand, showcasing striking items allowed us to attract the buyers’ attention at the show. We also observed they are interested in the use of more sustainable materials,” added God, who recently launched her first denim products.

An optimistic retro wind was blowing throughout the event, bringing with it the good cheer of the shimmering 1970s. Its main features were vibrant orange hues, geometric, almost psychedelic patterns, and flared trousers.

Crochet has already made a come-back in the wardrobes of fashion aficionados, and is here to stay next summer, whether in soft hues and circular patterns for a boho-chic style, or arrayed in colourful stripes after the fashion of Italian label and knitwear pioneer Missoni.

Items by Beaumont (left and centre) - FNW

Often in oversize format to add a sculpted look to fabrics, quilted effects are featured on bags and garments alike. They come in vibrant, flashy hues, from orange to electric blue, bright yellow and in tie-dye effects, colours that seem to dictate the directional trends for the 2023 summer season.

A fact that made many exhibitors happy to have presented brightly coloured collections. With its floral, animal and day-glo plant-themed prints, and pastel monochrome sets, Belgian independent label Les Blondinettes was on the right track. “For me, that’s really our brand identity,” said Laure Sagehomme, designer for the label that debuted with a jewellery collection. “I work with four drops per season, introducing a key print every month, creating flowing looks by using fabrics like viscose and lightweight georgette,” she added.

The summer 2022 heatwaves have influenced the choices of multibrand retailers looking for next year’s products. “Since their customers really felt the heat this summer, retailers were looking for lightweight items made with viscose and fine jerseys,” said independent German label Juvia, which notably featured cotton fleece items.

The editorial team

Summer 2023 trends spotted at Who’s Next show

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