Roberto Cavalli reveals a youthful, sexy collection that really packs a punch

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Sep 22, 2018

Paul Surridge's plans for Roberto Cavalli are becoming ever clearer. Having taken over as the brand's creative director a year ago, the British designer unveiled on Saturday a womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2019 that was at once versatile and dynamic, updating the ingredients that made the Florentine fashion house successful for the tastes of today's consumers. This meant sensual outfits, luxurious materials, skilled craftsmanship and a touch of glamour, all remixed with a more modern, sporty vibe. 

Aside from some long dresses and trench coats in printed or silvered silk, the Roberto Cavalli silhouette for next Summer is super short and revealing. The runway hosted a succession of colourful shorts, ultra-tight drape-effect mini-dresses, plunging necklines, uncovered shoulders, long-sleeved blouses knotted at the chest to reveal exposed midriffs, and dresses slit at the side. 

The designer brought in the brand's characteristic animal prints but modernised them with new graphics, reinventing them in dusty shades of beige, grey and washed-out green. He had also developed some patterned leather pieces, including strapless dresses, shorts and bras in terracotta tones, or constructed like mosaics from a collage of different coloured patches. 

This season's wardrobe's sportier, more everyday feel was translated through a series of simpler, easy-to-wear pieces, such as cycling shorts. A core element of the collection, these were worn with large jackets or long, flowing striped shirts, but also with sweaters and sequin-covered tops, even being decorated with crystals and embroidery in order to be transformed into a worthy evening-wear piece. 

Paul Surridge had also sought out his inspiration among Moroccan craftsmen, having recently travelled to the country. Moroccan sequins therefore appeared on embroidered dresses and jackets, while traditional Berber carpets, decorated with fringes or silver embellishments, were reinterpreted in other pieces. 

With this collection, the brand owned by investment firm Clessidra continues its relaunch, following up on the unveiling of its new website and the recent opening of its new concept store in Berlin. As of 31st December 2017, Roberto Cavalli was distributed through 87 monobrand stores (46 of which are company owned, the other 41 being managed by franchisees), reporting revenues of 152.4 million euros.