Prada edges closer to top of Lyst Index, gender-neutral products take starring role
The Q3 edition of the Lyst Index had good news for Prada as the brand moved up one place into second position, its highest-ever index placement, with a 44% rise in searches this quarter.
The number one spot remains elusive, but it’s a big achievement for the label that saw a period of declining performance in the last decade and also during the pandemic.
But rival Gucci stayed on top of the list, being the world’s hottest brand for the second consecutive quarter this year. Valentino was also up one at number three, while Prada’s Miu Miu rose two spots to fifth place, Fendi was up one to number seven, Diesel up one to eighth spot and Versace up one to number 10.
Also in the top 10 were Balenciaga that dropped two spots to number four, Dior holding on in sixth place, and Louis Vuitton down four at number nine.
What’s clear here is that Italian brands are dominating the list, with seven Italian houses within the top 10 and showing strong momentum.
Numbers 11 to 20 were Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Nike, Jacquemus, Moncler, Adidas, Burberry and Off-White.
Despite fears that catwalk shows and celebrity links might be an irrelevance post-pandemic, brands really seemed to benefit from the return of runways. Lyst said that “big shows and celebrities democratised access to Milan Fashion week, gaining huge results. There was a 2,000% spike in searches for Versace after Paris Hilton walked the runway while Dolce & Gabbana climbs three spaces in the ranking, thriving on the controversy of working with Kim Kardashian as collection curator and brand ambassador”.
And with Bottega Veneta, “shoppers are searching for the luxurious Kalimera bag from Matthieu Blazy’s debut collection, while fashion fans lauded his second show on social media”.
But it wasn’t only about runway and big-name celebs. It added that “Jacquemus, the only independent label in the top 20, is still on the rise; the designer’s choice to share his wedding on Instagram deepened the intimate connection he is building with a loyal and engaged customer base online”.
The company has also added a new section to its quarterly index and is identifying three brands that are gaining heat the fastest, thought they’re outside of the top 20.
Its new Breakout Brands cohort are the “smaller but mighty brands to watch; rising fast on a powerful and rapid upwards trajectory”.
This time, they include Coperni, with its Paris show stunt generating over a million mentions on TikTok, with searches up 50% quarter-on-quarter for the brand.
Also in the trio was Jaded London, whose cargo pants “created a halo effect for the brand, as a result searches are up 63% quarter-on-quarter”.
And Chopowa Lowena was called out as it made its highly anticipated debut at London Fashion Week with searches up 86%.
The company has also changed its hottest product list for this quarter, making it now one genderless chart, “reflecting the growing popularity of cult items appealing to all”. Seven out of 10 top items this quarter were purchased by both male and female shoppers.
That said, Miu Miu’s female-focused ballet flats were the hottest product of the quarter, with a 1,100% spike in searches.
It was also the fifth Index appearance for the Birkenstock Boston clog in second place that’s “fast becoming the defining shoe of the post-pandemic fashion era”.
The simplicity of Prada’s logo tank top (despite a £690 price tag) put it in third place.
Meanwhile, Ugg was back in the Hottest products list, the Tazz slipper being the fourth hottest product in the world after having been worn by multiple celebrities, including Gigi Hadid, Elsa Hosk and Shanina Shaik.
Interestingly, sneakers are no longer riding high. The Adidas Samba was the only sneaker to make the list at number five. In Q1 2019, the top 10 menswear products were all sneakers.
Diesel’s logo products again proved strong with its B-1DR belt in sixth place.
The index also shows the power of positive publicity. Patagonia’s Better Sweater fleece was seventh on the top 10 products list. And when the brand’s billionaire founder gave away the company to a charitable trust, Lyst saw an 8% increase in searches for the label.
Gucci’s 1953 horsebit leather loafer was eighth, ahead of the Valentino Garavani mini one stud bag in the brand’s rich pink colour of the season.
And Balenciaga’s wraparound sunglasses at number 10 were the hero product behind the season’s biggest eyewear trend, with shoppers hunting for ‘sports’ ‘wraparound’ and ‘rave’ shades.
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