299
Fashion Jobs
L'OREAL GROUP
Assistant CRM Manager
Permanent · HONG KONG
L'OREAL GROUP
Key Account Manager
Permanent · HONG KONG
H&M
Total Rewards Manager, Supply Chain
Permanent · TSIM SHA TSUI
H&M
Accounts Specialist
Permanent · TSIM SHA TSUI
ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES
Assistant Demand Planning Manager
Permanent · HONG KONG
ESTÉE LAUDER - BRAND
Retail Marketing Manager, Estée Lauder
Permanent · HONG KONG
CLINIQUE
Assistant Education Manager, Clinique
Permanent · HONG KONG
CLINIQUE
Senior Marketing Manager, Clinique
Permanent · HONG KONG
TOMMY HILFIGER
Senior Manager, Creative Services, Tommy Hilfiger Asia Pacific
Permanent · HONG KONG
AESOP
Retail Consultant
Permanent · SHA TIN
NEWELL
Senior Manager, Indirect Sourcing
Permanent · HONG KONG
L'OREAL GROUP
Group Product Manager
Permanent · HONG KONG
ADIDAS
Senior Manager, Materials Availability Management
Permanent · HONG KONG
L'OREAL GROUP
Assistant Purchasing Manager (Marketing, Digital IT)
Permanent · HONG KONG
PUMA
Manager Innovation Technical Apparel
Permanent · HONG KONG
DR. MARTENS
Head of Financial Accounting, Apac
Permanent · TSIM SHA TSUI
TJX COMPANIES
Director of Sourcing, Apparel -Hong Kong
Permanent · HONG KONG
A & F
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative (Part-Time / Full-Time), Hysan Place
Permanent · CAUSEWAY BAY
A & F
Hollister CO. - Brand Representative (Part-Time / Full-Time), Yoho Mall
Permanent · HONG KONG
A & F
Abercrombie & Fitch - Brand Representative (Part-Time / Full-Time), Harbour City
Permanent · TSIM SHA TSUI
KERING EYEWEAR
Kering Eyewear Assistant Trade Marketing Manager Travel Retail
Permanent · HONG KONG
JAEGER
Training Manager
Permanent · HONG KONG
Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
Mar 5, 2018
Reading time
3 minutes
Download
Download the article
Print
Text size

Poiret's flair-filled rebirth

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
Mar 5, 2018

Poiret is born again, and has passed a telling test with flying colours. The Parisian couture label was founded by artist and designer Paul Poiret in 1904, and it closed down in 1929. In 2015 it was acquired by Korean group Shinsegae International, and it graced the Parisian catwalks again on Sunday, at the Paris Decorative Arts Museum, showcasing an Autumn/Winter 2018-19 collection designed by Yiqing Yin, which won it universal praise.


Poiret - Autumn/Winter 2018 – Womenswear - Paris - © PixelFormula


The China-born French designer, 32, reinterpreted the maison's design codes cleverly, introducing rich fabrics, bright colours and an Oriental mood, and at the same time steering well clear of the danger of creating a facsimile, giving instead a new lease of life to Poiret's original spirit.

"We spent a year on this project, putting a lot of time into research and archive work, and then standing back from it to focus chiefly on the personality of Paul Poiret, the man who set women's bodies free from corsets," said Yiqing Yin backstage.

The spirit of this pioneering designer was evident in a collection featuring a hint of nonchalance, a touch of classy extravagance, and sensuality, with moderation. The clothes are pliant and versatile, seemingly changing personality from one woman to another. Oversize down jackets and parkas in sumptuous tech jacquard fabrics are worn sometimes like a plaid over the shoulders, sometimes like an evening dress.

A grey turtleneck sweater slinks out of a kimono-shouldered dress in rust-coloured shantung silk. A mini leather jacket combines with a straight skirt with vertiginous slits at the front and back. Extra-large mohair sweaters overflow over sophisticated long pleated skirts.


Poiret, Autumn/Winter 2018-19 - © PixelFormula


Shimmering fabrics abound, but worn in an easy-going fashion, in flowing trouser jumpsuits; in pleated, asymmetric-cut sleeveless dresses in golden hues, and in a giant bow-dress made in a crackling fabric spun from metallic gilded yarn, akin to a gold-foil chocolate wrapper.

"At Paul Poiret, there was extravagance in decoration and fabric enhancement, but the clothes' architecture was understated," said Yiqing Yin, whose collection features a series of monochrome dresses with an array of draped, pleated, cross-over and drop-down effects. Often buttonless, these dresses are cinched at the waist with a simple knot, or fastened with zips across the back, or the front, depending on the mood.

"I've created clothes women can have fun with, expressing their own personality through them. Many models can be worn in different ways, back-to-front and vice versa, belted up or loose, their volumes adapted at will. They follow their wearers' moods, their secret plans throughout the day," said the designer.


Poiret, Autumn/Winter 2018-19 - © PixelFormula


"It's women who wear the clothes, not the other way round. Women themselves decide who they are! With Poiret, a very free, very strong kind of woman is taking shape," said the label's CEO, Anne Chapelle, who is also in charge of Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, of which she is a financial partner.

"Poiret targets all women, and plays on contrasts, for example using extra-fine fabrics for sporty items and very straightforward evening dresses. It's high-quality accessible luxury. Everything is produced and developed in-house," added Anne Chapelle, who is in charge of a team of 24 people of 16 nationalities. The fabrics are manufactured exclusively for Poiret in France, Italy and Switzerland, and production is Europe-based.

 

Copyright © 2024 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.