Moschino does retro-futurism

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Feb 22, 2018

Moschino premiered its remake of Back to the Future this Wednesday evening. Dressed in zesty little micro-dresses and skirt-suits, the models stepped out of a neon-lit tunnel that put one in mind of a spaceship, and strode down an unending catwalk, looking for all the world like glamorous retro air hostesses strutting across the tarmac. Some had blue, green, yellow or even pink skin, like strange creatures from another galaxy. 

The ultra-short silhouettes – almost all monochrome but gloriously colorful as they alternated shades of spearmint green, egg yolk yellow, candy pink and Lafayette blue, each piece bordered with black vinyl – were reminiscent of Courrèges' futuristic looks from the 1960s.

However, upon closer inspection, the models that had been sent down the (airplane?) runway by the Italian label's creative director Jeremy Scott, looked more like a parade of Jackie Kennedy lookalikes. Indeed, the iconic elegance of the former first lady was the inspiration behind Scott's autumn/winter 2018-19 collection, a fact more than evident in the skirt-suits and neat little black-bordered tweed and jersey coats on display on the catwalk, pieces that were matched with pillbox hats and pumps on coiffed models whose gloved hands clutched chic mini handbags.

The looks were updated with zippers and colorful faux fur inserts, and accompanied by some pop art-inspired comic strip dresses, the product of a collaboration with the American candy manufacturer Crazy Fruits, which were already available for purchase at the end of the show. 

For eveningwear, Moschino's creatures hesitated between the chic silk and satin gowns with large ribbons that were popular in the sixties, and outfits made out of mysterious kryptonite-like stones from faraway planets. The result was a set of hybrid dresses which wrapped around the models' bodies, leaving gaps through which colorful satin could be glimpsed, while one model's look spliced a black tuxedo with a shocking pink evening gown.