Lanvin unveils spring/summer 2021 collection in Shanghai

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Isabelle Crossley

Published
Oct 20, 2020

This season, Lanvin eschewed the Parisian runway to present its latest collection with a grandiose showcase in Shanghai. The brand, which was acquired by Chinese business Fosun Fashion Group in 2018, appears to be working on strengthening its ties with China through a spring/ summer 2021 collection that was a strong tribute to Chinese culture and fashion.

Notably, since the beginning of autumn, the oldest of the French couture houses has been led by two general managers,  Arnaud Bazin and Grace Zhao who work in tandem, with the latter in charge of the Asia Pacific region. The choice of Shanghai for the runway show and the cast made up of many Asian models could therefore mark a new chapter for the brand with a strategy more orientated towards Asia.
 
The runway show was held on Saturday evening in front of 700 guests in the Yu garden in the heart of the historical area of Shanghai. The show took place at the foot of a pagoda, and the brand name ‘Lanvin’ was illuminated along with the stone footbridges which span the ponds in the ‘garden of happiness’. Lanvin’s creative director Bruno Sialelli imagined a highly elegant wardrobe that oscillates between Parisian chic and eastern refinement, where silks and satins have pride of place. “The influence of Chinese culture on the art and fashion of the 1920s is a fundamental source of inspiration for this show,” said the brand.

Umbrellas were transformed into floral Chinese parasols. Prints and embroidery were inspired by Art Deco lacquer panels of decorator Jean Dunand, who was a great friend of brand founder Jeanne Lanvin, and took on the appearance of old prints. Gilding on a turquoise moiré bouffant top brought to mind the traditional outfits of the Celestial Empire. Gold made numerous appearances in the collection, looking both sober and precious, and sparkling details were also presented in many forms including rhinestones, luminous embroidery, crystals, and golden detailing.

The collection’s silhouettes are sensual and drape across the body. Men were dressed in three piece suits and looser ensembles and women were dressed in entirely elegant ensembles ,whether  a leather suit, a cocktail dress, or an embroidered cardigan over a printed veil skirt. The Lanvin couple also had several identical garments for him and for her.
 
As always, Sialelli drew on the archives of the couture house, reinterpreting its design codes, in particular its richest period in the 1920s. The decorative knot, dear to the heart of the brand’s founder, was also found prominently embroidered in sparkling stones under the neckline of a cardigan or at the waist of a ruffled midi-length dress. The designer also reworked the brand’s signature garment, a stylish dress with a loose skirt and tightened at the waist, with flared volumes which he also used for mini-dresses and for shorter and longer coats with large lapels.