Frida Giannini creation for Gucci Spring/Summer 2008 collections Photo : Christophe Simon/AFP

MILAN, Sept 27, 2007 (AFP) - Gucci, which Texan designer Tom Ford put on the international fashion map with his steamy, overt sexuality, has taken a step back in time to revisit the more restrained 1950s for its collection for next summer.

Frida Giannini, now in charge of the label, delved into the fashion archives for her circle skirts, cinched into the waist with a neat bow and billowing out to mid-calf, draped or pleated in graphic black and white with splashes of yellow and candy pink or exotic floral prints. Others were seamed with bands of patent leather.

Pink, candyfloss or rose-petal, was the fetish shade in Giannini's collection, whether for a dinky jacket-cum-shirt in shiny vinyl or a roomy coat with short sleeves, jodphurs or a puffball dress with big pockets.

Taffeta evening gowns, which swept the floor, came with huge black belts. A corset top was held up on one shoulder by a giant belt buckle.

Roberto Cavalli went even further back in history with his recreation of courtesans from the court of the Sun King in the hall of mirrors in Versailles, with bouffant hairdos, long dresses in white cotton with lashings of lace, smocking and pintucks.

While collars touched the chin, dresses were open to below the waist and carelessly exposed bare breasts.

The show then shifted into 1960s mode with shirt-waisters and long silk tunics in violet, blue and moss green, with hippy scarves and Indian cottons, all very floaty and full, while feet were firmly encased in heavy sandals with thick wooden soles.

Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani's diffusion line, showed mid-thigh length skirts and shorts in silky satin in grey, white and beige, draped or pleated on the side or even styled like a mini pareo.

They came with skimpy tops, baring breasts adorned with big necklaces or strings of pearls.

For his label Antonio Marras, who is artistic director at Kenzo, mixed shades of raspberry pink and grey and played with contrasting matt and shiny fabrics for catsuits, corset dresses and kimono jackets.

Witty designs included a yellow and grey harlequin jacket with chessboard design over boxer shorts and jodphurs, already being touted as big for the coming winter, in every possible shade but perhaps best in white with a tiny feathered top.

by Katia Dolmadjian