French label Officine Générale accelerates retail expansion, eyes New York opening

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Nicola Mira

Published
Jul 4, 2019

French label Officine Générale staged a catwalk show at the vast Carreau du Temple venue in Paris during the men's fashion week, unveiling its new Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Pierre Mahéo, who founded the label with menswear in 2012 and added women's ready-to-wear in 2017, concocted an impeccable wardrobe, both chic and casual, ideal for a summer outing in Italy.

The label's well-cut suits in lightweight fabrics are worn with ease, combined with sneakers, like the sorbet-green model with matching tie. Officine Générale’s menswear is infused with innate elegance, and gets away even with a raincoat worn over a white pyjama set with subtle navy piping.

The style is classic but cool, with double-breasted blazers, three-button jackets and svelte cotton tops, loose striped shirts over dark formal trousers, a preference for white trousers, so easy to match, and the Italian touch of wearing a vest under shirts and blouses, which can then be left unbuttoned to the navel while still retaining a certain chic.

Officine Générale’s womenswear oozes the same kind of fresh, understated elegance, with several masculine looks in a classic palette or in faded pastel hues. The collections should definitely appeal to buyers and fans alike, bolstering the label's position in the accessible luxury segment. Officine Générale pays great attention to the quality of the garments, which are all made in Europe.

The label has been backed since 2015 by the Mode & Finance investors of BPI France, and continues to push forward with its retail expansion. Officine Générale, based in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, now operates five monobrand stores in Paris and one in London, plus an e-shop.

In 2017, it opened its third store in the French capital in July, and ventured abroad for the first time four months later, setting up shop on London’s Beak Street. Last year, it boosted its presence in France by inaugurating two new stores in Paris: a first boutique dedicated to womenswear in rue du Dragon, and a men’s/women's store in rue Boissy d’Anglas.

Officine Générale is also distributed via 220 multibrand retailers worldwide, and is committed to opening a store in New York. The USA are its main wholesale market, accounting for 40% of sales, followed by Europe (35%), Asia (20%) and the rest of the world (5%). In the medium term, the label is also hoping to find a partner in Asia, to expand its presence in the continent.