Fendi reinvents dandy style for Milan Fashion Week
Fendi's menswear continues to evolve into an increasingly sophisticated, hybrid-contemporary fashion universe. As demonstrated by the fine Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection designed by Silvia Fendi Venturini for the LVMH-owned Roman luxury house, which was unveiled on Saturday on the second day of Milan Fashion Week Men. Fendi Venturini is steering her menswear towards new horizons, delighting in contrasts: the past and the future, the masculine and the feminine, the minimalistic and the lavish.
Spotlights climb slowly up to the ceiling, illuminating a narrow, elevated steel ramp down which the models tread, moving through a thick fog reminiscent of Victorian London. Carrying attaché cases and clad in wool overcoats and impeccably cut flannel suits, they seem to be coming from the City, or an elite gentlemen's club.
The atmosphere is elegant and affluent. The collection’s palette is chic and understated (beige, white, black, grey, mocha and burgundy), featuring muted monochrome sets accented by details like a flower on a buttonhole or subtly embroidered knee-length socks. The overcoats are long and cut from fine fabrics. A shorts-and-jacket set in houndstooth tweed is worn tone-on-tone with a bob hat, the model’s eyeglasses frame and an ample overcoat made in matching fabric.
Little by little, Fendi’s traditional men's wardrobe incorporates discreet flights of fancy, blending with a contemporary, often futuristic landscape. A classic jacket is cut open on all sides, morphing into a mini cape, or is layered over the coat for a frock-coat effect. The retro feel is heightened by the use of classic menswear fabrics with houndstooth or check patterns. The soft knitted sweaters feature triangular slits just below the neck, on the sternum.
Some of the silhouettes veer towards the feminine, sporting pop 3D prints in pearl and diamond motifs, trousers fastened at the back by a single piece of fabric resembling a skirt, maxi tunics and knitted dresses. In the same vein, necklines are softer and slightly rounded, and suit jackets, coats and casual jackets often shed their collars, creating unexpected effects by baring the neck and the top of the shoulders.
This drift towards femininity is accentuated in many looks through the use of accessories, like the small cross-shoulder handbags worn by virtually all the models, the jewellery, earrings and even removable turtlenecks trimmed with pearl necklaces. On an evening out, Fendi men will wear uber-chic tailcoat dinner jackets and won’t leave without a clutch bag, carried at the end of a thin golden chain, and their two-tone Mary Jane wingtip brogues featuring a watch on their straps. Not so practical for telling the time, but so directional ...
Fendi’s new collection places great emphasis on sumptuous, very special fashion accessories, from handbags to jewellery, hats, eyewear and socks. And on logos too, as many of the items are decorated with the house’s renowned double F monogram, created by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965, and the new interlocking chain monogram.
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