Charles de Vilmorin: Groovy, gothic and gallic

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jul 8, 2021

Charles de Vilmorin is the hottest wunderkind in Paris and his latest couture video only suggests that he has such abundant fantasy in his repertoire to have a great career.

 
Staged in a quarry outside Paris, centered around a distressed oasis, and starring a half-dozen exotic beauties, his five-minute video was easily the most evocative and brilliant of the Paris season.
 
A poignant ballad by Joanna and Bilal Hassani, who starred in the fashion flick, and great direction by Colin Solal Cardo made for a fine fashion moment.

Something of prodigal children about this video, where the cast march across the bizarre desolate landscape to the faux oasis. 

 
Dressed in cutaway asymmetrical black dresses topped with cock feathers, and finished with dangling shards of fabric. Kinda 'Cristobal Balenciaga dressing the next Mad Max.' Plus, young Charles is such a self-confident chap, he already has his own scripted logo, done in his own hand. And seen in a marvelous governess gown, with a sportswear elastic waist.
 
Just when it got a little too Gormenghast, de Vilmorin suggested a flawless chiffon halter neck, worn by a proud model with extended tresses and floral undies which she flashed.
 
Half-way through, Joanne gracefully posed in a long gown with train. From her neckline and arms sprouted fabric and branches and petals – tree of life couture. Mini claws, spirals and hoods covered fingers and noses in a witty take on Goth, and a technique sure to inspire multiple copies. Eighteen looks, all but one in black.
 
“I’m known for creating with lots of color. This time I wanted to be dark, with some monsters,” de Vilmorin told FashionNetwork.com, as he presented the entire collection on Stockmann mannequins on Thursday inside Maison Baccarat. 

 
In September, de Vilmorin will stage his debut collection for the house Rochas, with a catwalk show in Paris on the official season calendar.
 
“Rochas to me is a young, dynamic and modern woman. It’s quite a classical brand, though I want to add some trash,” he chuckled with a mischievous glint in his eyes. 
 
Everything in his own brand finished with bold costume jewelry from a stern alien in a five-inch-long earrings, to knife-like brass feathers. Shoes by Francesco Russo added a classy touch.
 
Eventually, after stripping off into bikinis, the models all gather at the dried-out oasis, attired in fresh plissé gowns and layered chiffon coats, before Bilal sprouts five giant dinosaur teeth from his back. The judgment day approaching perhaps?
 
A video worthy of Fellini, by a force to be reckoned with in fashion.