Maison Margiela’s travel victim

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Sep 27, 2017

Nothing like travelling first class. Especially wearing the latest collection from Maison Margiela, half of whose looks carried references to well-heeled flights and pampered passengers.

 
The opening beige trench had a stiff yellow tag reading Priority; a red plisse frock had a Crew Bag sticker and a smart new cowhide handbag’s tag was finished a red Rush notice. Warming to the travel theme, the cast looked like they could all take a nap on the bulbous leather matelassé handbags.
 
Pride of place went to a charming plissé skirt made of multiple baggage tags. Though the best looks were the simplest – like an eight button ecru leather pea coat that would flatter nearly any woman. All put together with designer John Galliano’s signature demi-deconstruction – from cut out cowboys finished with diamanté chains to a marvelous final duo of trench and caban  trimmed in mini glass panels. So cut-out one could see the model’s cami knickers prominently.

Hard to know what Galliano thought of the clothes seeing as his backstage was closed again. However, here’s what we think. This was a perfectly competent display by a immensely talented designer, whose main focus these days appears to be on the house’s couture collection Maison Margiela Artisanal, a true laboratory of fashion. It’s pure experimentation makes it an absolutely must see show; while this ready-to-wear collection, while witty and clever, felt like a starter course in a good restaurant – and hungry for something more substantial.